Friday, July 29th, 2011
Tickets are booked and I’ll be back in the USA this November. I’d like to have gone earlier but there are only so many hours in the day to get everything completed before departure.
I’m making a slightly shorter trip on this occasion with just the three days in both San Francisco and New York. Of course my existing clients will have priority in the diary but if possible I’ll be delighted to meet new clients who’d like to try our service.
My full itinerary is here.
On a different note I thought this would interest you out there. Here’s a couple of pictures of a vintage Anderson & Sheppard suit made exactly forty years ago.
It’s typical old Andersons, very soft, drapey and with a small armhole. Also the the fronts are pretty square and the checks on the sleeves don’t match.
As Mr Hallbery said ” If you want the sleeves to match, go to Burtons”
Monday, July 25th, 2011
Around the globe we’ve all heard about the terribly sad events that have unfolded over the weekend. A tailors opinions wont give any comfort so all we can do is pray for everyone involved and thank God that our families and lives have not been shattered like these innocent people.
We have many Norwegian clients and my family have very strong links with Scandinavia in general as we were only there a few weeks ago. Anyone who knows Norway will understand how privileged Mr Breivik was to live in and be included in such a tolerant and peaceful society that has constantly tried to see the best in people and understand all opinions. This in turn has made Norway one of the most successful civilised nations on the planet.
Let’s not forget their history that proves that this country has a lot of backbone who have helped preserve a free world. They will overcome anything but let’s also pray that we never have to live through such a heartbreaking example of evil.
Monday, July 19th, 2010
(Al doing what he enjoyed best)
Our business will be closed for the day as we’re attending the funeral of a very dear friend and colleague Mr Alan Pitt. As many of you know he was the senior cutter at Anderson & Sheppard and retired up here to Cumbria three years ago.
He was a wonderful help to everyone who knew him and well miss him very much. Sadly Al never enjoyed the long retirement we all hope for but at least he had the satisfaction of enjoying over forty years in a career that he loved.
Again we’ve been left with another huge gap in knowledge that’s not been replaced. His funeral will be in his home county of Essex today.
Friday, June 4th, 2010
(fantastic summer seersucker)
Now if we’ve got suits like this on the board you know that summers arrived. Of course the wise among you will know that if this suits only made it as far as the cutting board then the proud owner will be lucky if he’s wearing it this autumn.
Well, we are fortunate to have many clients around the world who get to enjoy a little more sunshine than us in this green and pleasant land. Which is lovely for some. We’re always asked about how we can keep a Savile Row suit as lightweight and cool as possible. I basically summed it up in an article I wrote five years ago, which is here if you want a recap.
But to be honest the reality is that you’ll always be cooler if you have a suit that is naturally constructed, without heavy canvas and haircloth. Also, if it fits you properly you’ll feel comfortable with the ability to move. That way you wont be fighting against the garment and you’ll feel more relaxed and cool.
You’d be amazed at the amount of clients who wear 12-13oz fabrics in the summer. Experience has taught them that the 8-9 oz worsted’s don’t really make you feel that much cooler. What they’re guaranteed to to do in hot humid conditions is to crease and crumple more and certainly make you look hot and flustered.
(just popping out with the family)
My advice with clothing is a little like food. You eat with your eyes and have almost made up your mind before you’ve had a single bite. If you’re going to wear wool in the summer, 10oz is light enough. Keep the colours lighter and you’ll automatically feel that your wearing a cooler suit. Then if circumstances permit, wear the real summer weights and fabrics like this lucky fellow. Linens and cottons in light blues, tan and stone colour and your brain will tell you that you’re straight from the cool calm era of the British Raj. They’ll crease like the devil but that’s what they’re supposed to. Anyway, as in the old colonial days just pretend you have a personal valet who’ll tell you every time that ” your suit is pressed and ready Saab“.
Thursday, June 3rd, 2010
(the lovely harbour in Whitehaven)
Obviously this note has nothing to do with tailoring but simply a thank you to all of the kind condolences sent to us regarding yesterdays awful events. The area is barely an hour from us here and I know the town of Whitehaven very well. In fact I’m filmed in Whitehaven on my little boat at the end of the documentary made about us.
Apart from the fact that this is my home port, which you can imagine is very dear to any sailors heart. This comes as a huge shock as this beautiful county is famed for having very little crime and is basically a very peaceful and safe place to live. There’s very little I can say and it’s pointless to rant about an individual who has taken advantage of kind people simply getting on with their lives.
This area is of mining and fishing stock and they’re used to heartache. But the people of this area are strong and kind. They will gather round as a community and raise the broken hearts of all involved.
As they say “our thoughts and prayers go out to all effected by this”. However, I would pause to say a prayer for yourself. Because if this can happen here it can happen anywhere.
Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009
(alright for some)
This lucky fellow is Lee Oxley one of my tailors who started with us after leaving Anderson and Sheppard last year. He’s settled in so nicely he’s even treating himself to a new blazer, which is perfect for that sartorial edge down the local pub or the golf club. As I said earlier if you can only afford one peice of bespoke in your wardrobe this is essential. You’ll really get your moneys worth over the years. This is his first fitting which dosent look bad for the first job that I’ve cut for him. Lee’s keeping it simple with one button and a peaked lapel. A dark pair of trousers and tie and it’s formal enough for most occasions, polo top and chinos and it’s great for after the beach. That’s what you call versatile.
Unlike poor me, who has to fit his own suit which is a lot harder than you think, I’ll make sure that his fits.. This is obvious as you’ll see from the pic below of my lovely new wife Claire and I, we both look as if were straight off the top of a wedding cake. Claire looks great in her “Oscar de la Renta” but my suit’s a bit on the big side. However, you dont know how lucky I felt to get the girl and a new suit! Too big or too small I didnt really care.
I’d like to thank Val of Warwick Hall for our super day. If you’d like your special day here I can highly recommend it. I must also thank Roger my great pal who did a super job with the photographs and Terry Brown of Scabal London who very kindly gave me the lovely fabric for my suit. Just before my wedding I was visiting a shirt makers in Northern Ireland whod I’d heard great things about. They very kindly offered to make me a shirt for the big day so I must thank Richard and all the gang from Smyth and Gibson who did an amazing 48hr turnaround for me. Even with a huge pile of work Paul, Peter and Katherine made a lovely job of my suit. I promise to do my part and fit it properly soon.
I’m also delighted to tell you that my original “English Cut” girl, Lucy Adams and I will be travelling together again this Autumn. She’s a lot wiser than when I plucked her from the University I was teaching at five years ago. We’ve booked our tickets and our dates are here. This is my last but one trip around all four city’s and we both can’t wait to catch up with everyone.
I’ve also moved my cutting room over the drive to the stables which has lots of room and lots of light. Working in a 300yr old building is pretty inspiring and the view’s not bad either. I promise not to post any more wedding pics but you did ask. I know it’s great to see Claire but I’m all too aware of who’s now joined at her hip, poor girl.
(view at the end of the garden)
Anyway, I’ll leave you with this final picture below. I don’t know what I was saying at this point in my speech. Perhaps to Claire’s parents I was pledging my undying loyalty to their daughter? Or maybe I was auditioning to be the next Conservative candidate. Would make a great caption competition if you’ve any ideas?
(“we’ll fight on the beaches”)
Tuesday, September 1st, 2009
(only the best transport for Mr & Mrs Mahon)
No sooner had we left the church and enjoyed a few days in France I’m back at it on a train to Savile Row. We had a super time and we’ll post some pics when we have the posh versions.
A very kind reader wrote and told me about this lovely film clip from Pathe news. It’s a super insight into how Savile Row used to be. They also describe the amazing pedigree of Henry Poole. Thank’s again to our reader and you can enjoy it here.