Thursday, February 28th, 2013
(John Kahrs well deserved Oscar,Photo by John Shearer/Invision/AP)
Did you think we’d all emigrated? I wouldn’t blame you as it’s pretty obvious we’ve not been posting much. Well, to those of you who’ve missed us I do apologise. We simply don’t seem to have found enough hours in the day recently to keep you up to date. Not that we’re complaining, especially in these tuff times.
We’re flat out at the moment getting ready for our next US trip this April, visiting San Francisco and New York. Here’s my full itinerary.
I’ve never had the chance to go to the Oscars but our suits certainly have. However, this time it was rather special as a lovely client of ours was awarded an Oscar for the best short film at this years 85th Oscars in Hollywood. We’re extremely proud of Mr John Kahrs and delighted that he said we made him feel that bit more comfortable and stylish on such and incredible evening for both him and his family.
What made this more challenging is that we were recommended to Mr Kahrs and he liked the feel and soft comfort of our suits. However, we were short on delivery time so a straight finish was required for the event without any fittings. Scary for everyone involved but although not perfect the sartorial gods shined on us on this occasion.
“I believe I wore the best-made, best-looking tuxedo on the red carpet Sunday night, and I have you and your team to thank for it! What pleasure to wear something that fits so well, and I got MANY comments through the evening and all through the next day about how great we both looked. Even more impressive is the fact that we skipped the usual fittings” John Kahrs.
Wednesday, March 21st, 2012
Well there you are. It’s your advice I’m looking for and I hope it all came across clearly on our posh new camera. You asked us to improve the visuals so with a new camera and tripod your wish is our command. As you know English Cut was the first to help clarify the almost arcane craft of bespoke tailoring with the written word and simple snaps taken from a mobile phone. Over the years pictures improved, video was introduced and now we’re in full HD. This is good for learning about the craft but the downside I’m afraid is you’ll have to look at me in HD ; )
It’s interesting when you think that we moved from Savile Row to this area seventeen years ago when the world of social media was non existent. However, I was happy to do this as I felt we made something that was very special offering a totally different look and feel from usual Savile Row tailoring. This uniqueness gave me the confidence to leave London, for as they say the happiest place in England to start my own business. With our new hand made to measure service I feel again that we’ve created something new and completely without compare. As you can imagine it’s very exiting for us that we can now offer so many more people the special feeling of wearing truly hand made clothes.
(soft hand tailoring)
It’s fantastic to have a full bespoke order book but also frustrating that so many people have been unable to experience this wonderfully comfortable true hand tailoring. Of course it’s not just availability but the cost has often been too prohibitive for many people.
Fortunately two years ago when I found exactly what we were looking for. Our new range has been acclaimed by the media and our peers alike. Myself and our team created our new range from the blank pattern paper to the final pressing. Also to further make sure I was comfortable with anything that carried our name I’ve personally consulted and fitted every suit that we’ve made since our new service was launched launch last Autumn.The most comfortable ready to wear jacket I’ve ever tried? By a mile, and it’s the best fitting too. I wore one to an appointment I had with another first-class tailor I know and he looked at the jacket with interest. When I explained that it was RTW he seemed shocked, and said, “Tom will put us all out of business!” Tom’s new RTW clothes are closer to the look and feel of bespoke than I imagined possible. Mansel Fletcher, style editor, Esquire, London. This inevitably increased my workload but I’m delighted to say that it’s been an incredible success and I’m thoroughly convinced there’s nothing like it. People are talking and are wanting to try our service so as I said this is where I need help. We’re looking for advice from our friends and clients of quality tailors or retail outfitters that could supply our new range.
Of course you may be involved in our trade and read English Cut so I’d be delighted to hear from you wherever you’re based in the USA, Europe, Scandinavia or right here in the UK. Instead of using the usual resources to find like minded partners I prefer to ask our readers because I know they’ll be honest with me. I’m sure there’s a business in your home town who would be perfect to work with. We’d like to talk to professionals who make the extra effort in service and truly appreciate their clients value.
Thanks for reading and please get in touch.
Thursday, September 8th, 2011
It’s never easy to explain what many people would call the mystery of our craft but I certainly hope our little movie was at least slightly enlightening. Creating a pattern by this method can seem rather vague, especially, when you are trying to teach the process. By its very nature it’s basically one third technical and two thirds artistic.
However, I’m not going to beat myself up about how clear or unclear I made the process, I just hope you got a little enjoyment out of it and perhaps a little more knowledge. No doubt many of you gave up watching the entire video so you probably missed the last bit where I explained that we have some exciting news
(11 st george street, w1)
Firstly, I’m delighted to say that our new made-to-measure service is up and running. Of course you’re very welcome to visit us here at the Hall, but what may be a little more convenient will be to meet me in our new London office. I say “new” because we are about to move to a beautiful tailor’s shop at number 11 St. George Street, W1 which is basically just around the corner from the north end of Savile Row.
If you read earlier you’ll know that our new service starts at £1400 for a hand made two piece made from English cloth. Our delivery time will be 5-6 weeks. If you’d care to take advantage of our new range then please contact us and we’ll arrange an appointment for you. I’m obviously very proud of what we’ve achieved but here’s a reminder of what Esquire thought.
I will be meeting my bespoke clients here and also on specific days only our made-to-measure clients. The first date we are offering our new service in London will be Friday 16th September. I will then be taking appointments every two weeks. Also, because we are rather excited about our new range, we’ll be having a little launch party at Morton’s club which is just around the corner. Although I would love to invite all of the English Cut readers, I’m afraid the venue’s not big enough and my pockets aren’t deep enough so it’s by invitation only.
(entrance to mortons)
We have various people from the media and tailoring and fashion world attending and also some interested people from our industry. If you are involved in our business and would really like to come and have a look at what we’re doing and drink some of my free, very good champagne, then please write to me and I’ll try to fit you in.
Monday, July 11th, 2011
Believe it or not we’re still alive and busy here. I’m sure with no recent posts and not taking on new clients we’d understand if you thought we were having the whole summer off work. But I promise you that we’re very much here and doing our best to get clients commissions to them.
Monday, April 25th, 2011
(the lovely couple and we’ll all get to enjoy the day)
After a wonderful couple of weeks in the United States it’s lovely to be home in time for Easter with my family. Of course this is quite the holiday here in the UK. First of all there’s the long weekend for Easter then after only three days of work we’ll be downing shears again for the Royal wedding. The wedding as I’m sure you know is this Friday then we again enjoy another bank holiday on Monday. This coming week will certainly not be the most productive here in the UK.
After being away for so long this is a good opportunity to give us all a holiday here at English Cut. Therefore our office will be closed through until Tuesday the 3rd of May. Well why not, Easter a Royal wedding and then my son Patrick’s Christening next Sunday. A nice homecoming indeed.
(HRH and the Duchess of Cornwall in some of my mentors work, Mr Hallbery)
Tuesday, April 12th, 2011
I get told I always bring the good weather with me to San Francisco but I think it’s sunny like this all the time;) It’s great to be back here an thankfully business is brisk, so we must be doing something right.
Saving money on clothes normally involves compromising on quality, but tailor Thomas Mahon’s revolutionary new made-to-measure service is an exception to this rule. Mahon learned his trade at Anderson & Sheppard but has had his own business since 1995, and he cuts his clothes in the ‘soft’ style that is A&S’ trademark. The beauty of this is that Mahon’s clothes are incredibly comfortable, as well as looking good.
While Mahon, who’s based in Cumbria but visits London every week, is about 25% cheaper than the tailors who pay rent on Savile Row his suits are still around £2,800 each. His new MTM suits, however, cost about half this much, but give very little away in terms of quality. In fact so numerous are their virtues that it’s simpler to list them:
• Soft unstructured shoulders, which make the jackets extremely easy to wear and which mark out the wearer as a tailoring connoisseur.
• Even more extensive hand stitching than you’d expect from a Savile Row bespoke suit. This has the look and feel of a truly hand-made jacket because it truly is a hand-made jacket. First class cloth, in this case from W. Bill, London’s premier vendor of tweed.
• A quite incredible fit around the collar and back – to get such a ‘clean’ back on an unstructured MTM jacket is very unusual.
• The beautifully formed lapel that rolls into the buttons – on most suit jackets the lapels are pressed flat like an envelope flap. Note the dandyish three-roll-two button stance.
• The modest ‘drape’ in the chest that is what separates Mahon’s style of ‘soft’ tailoring from the stiffer ‘clean’ chests made by the majority of tailors.
These unique clothes come from a unique source. Unable to find a British manufacturer he was happy with Mahon discovered that in India there are still tailors prepared to make clothes the old-fashioned way (by hand), and that the results cost no more than many designer suits.
I wore the jacket in the photographs to meet a tailor recently and noticed him checking it out. On hearing that it was MTM the tailor looked horrified, “But Tom will put us all out of business!” he gasped. This is as close to first-class bespoke as it’s possible to get for the money; it’s a product that is, in my experience, without rival. Next up from Mahon is a range of ready-to-wear suits made to the same quality. Stay tuned.
From £1,400 for two-piece suit in fine English cloth, www.englishcut.com
APRIL 5TH, 2011
Friday, January 28th, 2011
(that’s soft tailoring)
I’m sorry I’ve not been posting but we’ve been extremely busy. As you know we’re developing a made to measure and ready to wear range. I’ll tell you all about it soon but here’s a couple of snaps of one of our prototypes. They’re entirely hand made and we’re still tweaking the block pattern that I’ve designed but we’re pleased how they’re coming along. Let me know what you think.
I have to commend you on how shrewd your comments have been regarding the shoulder line. As you can imagine a soft natural shoulder is my priority. The reason why it looks sharp is that the shoulder wadding is so light that it’s showing the line of the mannequin that it’s on.
I promise that shoulder is as soft as possible:)