January 21, 2008

under african skies.....

This fellow, Victor has been corresponding with me from time to time. It's super to chat to someone who's in the same business, but working in a place that couldn't be further from the rolling green hills of Cumbria.

(cutting)

Victor is one of those rare breeds, that both cuts and makes all his own work. These few pictures give a wonderful insight to the business. It's never quite hot enough for such informal clothes here in Cumbria, but his workshop looks very similar to what you'd find in a London basement. I hope you enjoy these couple of pictures.

If you ever find yourself in Lagos, Nigeria, theres a super tailor there who'll look after you. His address and telephone number is -

Mr. Victor Dugbazah
5 Yusef Oyero
Opp Demurin Kete
Alapere,
Nigeria

[Tel:] 0023 480 348 35433.

Tell him Thomas sent you! Thanks.

Posted by tom at 3:51 PM | Comments (0)

December 31, 2007

the fantastic four....

( the fantastic four)

"Fantastic four". Those are Ed's words, not mine :)

New Year's Eve, here at English Cut. As you can see I look the most tired out of all my former Anderson & Sheppard colleagues. It's been a very busy end of year for me and all my tailors. Well, that's my excuse, anyway.

We had a super party here at Warwick Hall with our old friends and enjoyed catching up. This crew you may recognize from left to right as, Edwin Steed, Paul Griffith my tailor, a worn out Me, and A&S's former head cutter, Alan Pitt.

I know we don't look like tailors, but it is 4.00pm on New Years' Eve and it's time for a cup of tea and a thorough gossip on all the good and bad that's happened in the trade over the last twelve months.

It's funny, as I remember these end-of-year chats we had when I worked at Anderson & Sheppard in London. Here we are and I've still got the same people around me but were in a different world. I suppose a typical example of it's "who you are and what you can do", not where some people think you should be.

The day, and year, is nearly over and were off to the pub for a quick Cumberland ale or two. I hope you can do the same and wish you all a wonderful 2008.

Posted by tom at 3:13 PM | Comments (0)

June 9, 2006

shears and beers...

[Martin and Jonathan on the Row]

It's always nice to meet other people in the trade, both old friends and new. You've probably gathered by now, that generally if we can help one another out, we will. And here is a classic example:

The photograph above is of Martin Stall and Jonathan Quearney. Jonathan you may be already familiar with, but Martin I only met recently in Belgium. Martin has trained and is currently based in the Netherlands, and by the sound of it he's had his education in the old school. He literally got in touch with me and explained that the weren't many real bespoke tailors in Holland, and when I was over he'd like to get me a beer and compare our work, and see if we could learn a little from each other.

Needless to say, the usual connection which seems to bond all tailors was prevalent again, namely, alcohol. Even though I was in a bar with a relative stranger in Brussels, I could have easily been with a friend on Savile Row in Mulligan's.

I wont bore you with the usual tailors' pub talk, but one thing did come up which I thought was fantastic: Martin has a good friend, only 25 years old, who has just qualified as a Master Blacksmith. Now I knew we tailors were rare, but blacksmiths...

Anyway, Martin had commissioned his friend to make him a pair of shears, something he'd never made before. As you can see, they're pretty impressive, which is what you'd expect for the 600 Euros asking price. My camera phone really doesn't do them justice- you can see all the working marks when you hold them. I'd love a pair of bespoke shears myself, but I think Old Man Sheppard would turn in his grave.

Finding the blacksmith was especially good news for Jonathan, who's a left-hooker. And even though we've hunted high and low, we've never been able to find him a large enough quality left-handed pair. Until now.

So there you have it. Its always good to be nice to folk, you never know who you might end up helping.

[Serious cutlery.]

You should check out Martin's blog. He's got some pretty forthright views on bespoke. It's an interesting read.

Also, Jonathan is on his way to New York and San Francisco this weekend. He offers super bespoke and shirts. Also a serious, quality made to measure from around £700. This will be encouraging to people whose budget doesn't quite stretch to bespoke. If you get to see him whilst he's in America, tell him "Hi" from me.

At least you know he's got a decent set of shears...

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Posted by tom at 6:38 PM | Comments (1) | TrackBack

May 19, 2006

ravi tailor in new york

I'm pleased to announce that a super tailor of Savile Row, and once again a very good friend of mine, Ravi Tailor of Anthony J Hewitt, is coming to New York this weekend.

Ravi will be staying at my usual hotel, The Benjamin, on 50th and Lexington.

I usually try to be in town with Ravi at the same time, he's great fun. Hewitt's is a great business and they are all thoroughly professional.

Ravi Tailor
Anthony J Hewitt
9 Savile Row
London W1S 3PF
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7734 1505
Hotel Benjamin: (212) 715 2500

He's got a new website, including his itinerary here.

I've known Ravi for a long time, he really does a super job. I hope you'll pay him a visit in Manhattan and maybe try on one of his suits. I rate him extremely highly, both as a tailor and as a all-round good fellow.

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April 21, 2006

Porro may is reign..

Myself and everyone involved with English Cut would like to offer our sincerest best wishes to our Queen, Elizabeth II on this, her 80th birthday.

Happy Birthday, Your Majesty.

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April 10, 2006

Malcolm Plews coming to New York..

I am pleased to announce that one of the best tailors on Savile Row, and also a very good friend of mine, Malcolm Plews of Welsh & Jeffries, is coming to New York in April.

Malcolm will be staying at my usual Manhattan hotel, The Benjamin, on 50th and Lexington.

I cannot recommend Malcolm highly enough. He makes a more structured coat than my own, a superb product; he is an utter master. In particular I know of no other tailor, including myself, who makes a finer woman's suit than he.

Being very old school, he has no website, but he can be easily contacted at the number below:

Welsh & Jeffries

20 Savile Row, London , W1S 3PR

Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7734 3062

Arrival Date: April 22, 2006
Departure Date: April 27, 2006

I hope you will make an appointment to see him while he's there. And when you do see him, please say 'Hello' from me. Thank you.

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March 31, 2006

bobby's boys...

[The very relaxed Brian Staples, and myself]

Whilst working on Savile Row the other day I had the usual mix of pleasure and pressure that this business affords you. A busy day seeing customers, then a few drinks after work with the other tailors. Always good for a few tales.

That day Brian Staples [a super tailor who I've known for years] asked me if I would see one of his customers here in Cumbria, and sort out a few tweaks for him, as the gentleman in question doesn't get down to London very often.

This is typical of this business- if we can help one another, we will. We don't worry about the "competition" possibly stealing your customer. It's not a concern, because we don't really have "competition" at this level of bespoke, just friends and colleagues.

We know who are The Real McCoy and who aren't. So do our customers. So what is often a near lifetime of service and friendship is never encroached upon.

Whiling away the last ten minutes of the day, before I escaped to buy Lucy supper in Mulligan's and plan our next US trip, Brian was telling me about about his 50 years in the business. Incredible. He started his apprenticeship with Bobby Valentine, henceforth he was referred to on the Row as one of "Bobby's Boys".

Bobby Valentine was one of the Savile Row's most flamboyant characters, who would certainly give Burlington Bertie a run for his money. A superb craftsman, especially popular with many customers in the music and theatre business.

[Miss Lucy Adams, who assists me on my U.S. visits.]

I remember Mr. Valentine coming in to talk to me in the front shop of Anderson & Sheppard one Spring day, wearing the most outrageous of clothes, but still looking impeccably stylish. He was giving me advice on life on the Row. Within minutes my boss, Mr. Halberry arrived. The immediate visual contact between the two men was enough to bring our polite conversation to an abrupt end. I remember laughing loudly to myself, at the stylistic clash of having Mr. Halberry and Mr. Valentine in the same room. Just look at the pictures of each man and work it out for yourself [Mr. Halberry's photo is here, Mr. Valentine's picture is posted below.].

After his apprenticeship, Brian moved to Denman & Goddard for a while. Then after that, for 12 years he managed the shop of one of the Row's most famous celebrity tailors, Doug Hayward. Mr. Hayward's shop was more of a private gentleman's club than a shop, where customers like Michael Caine, Tony Bennett and Sammy Davis Jr. would just randomly call in for a drink, or even throw an impromptu party.

After he parted his ways with Mr. Hayward, Brian started on his own, like myself, and has been that way ever since. He's as relaxed as he looks, and has no need for a website, because as he says, at a very youthful 66 years old, "I have no customers except old friends and new friends. There are no strangers here."

Says it all, I suppose.

If you fancy a new suit, he's one of the best. Hardcore old school. Brian Staples: +44 (0) 207 734 5069.

[Bobby Valentine on the left, with Tommy Nutter, the latter another wonderful character from the old days. This picture comes from the classic 1988 book, "The Savile Row Story" by Richard Walker. Highly recommended.]

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February 14, 2006

mr. hallbery...

[Click on image to enlarge.]

My teacher, the great Dennis Hallbery, head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. This photo was taken circa 1990 by my friend, Michael Arter, a trouser-maker at A&S.

Posted by tom at 1:37 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack

January 9, 2006

please subscribe to my monthly newsletter.

[Please subscribe by clicking here. Thank you.]

I have added a mailing list to English Cut for my new monthly newletter.

You may subscribe by clicking on the link above, or the one on the sidebar with the envelope icon.

This newsletter will be especially useful for my existing customers who want to keep abreast of my travelling itinerary, and new potential customers wishing to plan their first appointments, without having to read my weblog on a regular basis.

Of course, you can unsubscribe at any time, and it goes without saying, I won't use your details for any other purpose than the one just stated.

I hope you will subscribe. Thank you.

Posted by tom at 4:06 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack

December 13, 2005

jonathan quearney

The Sartorialist just did a lovely interview with my tailor friend, Jonathan Quearney.

Describe personal style?

When I first visited Paris in the late 90’s what caught my eye the most was the vagrants sense of style and how they dressed. It was completely uninfluenced by any trend, for obvious reasons. It came from necessity.

Once I observed a man standing inside the door of the restaurant; I thought he had an amazing presence while he waited for the leftovers. It was winter and he was head-to-toe in tailored garments combined in the most amazing patterns. This was not shabby chic; quite the opposite, this man looked his best. I don’t dress like a French vagrant, but their sense of style inspired me greatly.

[Bonus Satorialist Link:] G. Bruce Boyer writes about his first visit to Savile Row as a young lad:

I spent the next forty-five minutes or so going through the cloth swatch books, dozens and dozens of them – there must have been a hundred different patterns of district checks in tweed alone – some containing squares of cloth I thought I’d seen twenty minutes before in another book. My elderly guide stood demurely at my side, offering a word or two of encouragement or advice if I turned to him with a swatch between my fingers.

“Very serviceable piece of worsted, that is, Sir. Perhaps a bit too heavy, though, for your climate at home, would you think, Sir?"

In one book I spied a handsome plaid of rusty brown with a lavender and Kelly green over pane. Did he think it was a bit loud?

“Well, I wouldn’t necessarily say loud, Sir. But perhaps it does tend to mutter a bit.”

[Background Reading:] "Thomas' Top Ten". The most popular and informative English Cut articles.

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January 6, 2005

about thomas

[Photo of myself, courtesy of Scott Schuman.]

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Business Me:

After more than twenty years experience of hand tailoring in Savile Row, I can offer my customers the traditions and expertise of the finest bespoke tailoring available today.

At the moment I’m one of the youngest tailors on Savile Row, and am lucky to have enjoyed making for an interesting list of clients, celebs, business icons etc.

Shameless Namedropping: Clients have included Prince Charles, Chief Ralph Lauren Designer John Vizzone, Bryan Ferry, and some other bright sparks who I can’t mention for *Ahem!* reasons of discretion.

Once, after I had made a jacket for John Vizzone, he showed up at the door with a copy he had made for the Ralph Lauren label. Tsk-tsk. He then asked me if I would be interested in going to the USA and working for him. But of course, arrogant chap that I am (not really), I had bigger ideas (silly me). Something to do with staying up in Cumbria- where I grew up- and just enjoying life more, far from the madding crowd etcetera.

Still, Ralph Lauren managed fine, and their ready-to-wear lines are up there with the best.

I hope with my classic background in bespoke tailoring, coupled with a more open approach to this business, the experience of having your clothes made will be as enjoyable for you as it is for me.

I began my career training for 7 years with S. Redmayne, a great little company. After that I spent 5 years with my alma mater, Anderson & Sheppard, the most famous and respected tailor on Savile Row. There I was undercutter to the great Mr. Hallbery, who you could intellegently argue was the greatest tailor of the twentieth century.

I then started Steed with Edwin in 1995; a partnership that lasted six years. Ed & I are still pals and work only a few miles from each other. I’ve been independant since 2001.

My style of tailoring is soft and unstructured, classic "Anderson & Sheppard" style, which offers comfort and a natural look. Apart from a bespoke fit, I always try show a joint expression of style, my client's as much as my own, something that all of us wish to express. Sadly, much of today’s tailoring appears very stiff and structured, with a uniform sameness that’s, well, utterly boring.

[Further Info: Why buy a suit from me, as opposed to the other excellent Savile Row tailors.]

["Thomas'Top Ten": my favourite English Cut articles.]

Travelling Me:

My workshop is where I live, in Cumbria. I do most of my cutting there, though the sewing is almost exclusively done by Savile Row tailors. To sew my suits you need to have been trained to sew "The Anderson & Sheppard Way", hence why most of the sewing tailors I use are based within a stone's throw of Savile Row and A&S. Most of the the tailors I use also are also currently employed by A&S on a regular basis.

I am down on Savile Row most weeks, seeing clients and visiting my tailors. My movements are posted regularly on English Cut to keep everyone abreast of them. My offices are at Number 12 Savile Row, on the Eastern side of the street.

Besides London, I regularly visit New York, Chicago, Atlanta and San Francisco every three months.

I am more than happy to travel to faraway places off my regular beaten track, but of course, this has to make good business sense. Usually a larger order would need to be involved.

Though I keep one foot always firmly planted on Savile Row, in today's world one has to also remain extremely mobile. My clients all lead very busy lives themselves, so they understand and appreciate this.

Ordinary Me:

Apart from my love of tailoring, I like to have my base here at the Warwick Hall in Cumbria. It’s great to make my frequent assaults on London, New York Paris et al, but I’m less distracted up here.

I like to sail my little boat on one of the lakes, and when I’m lucky I get to sail my good friend’s yacht Andorina. If you don’t want to visit your tailor in Savile Row, then try a 65ft ketch on the west coast of Scotland or have a weekend at Warwick Hall; I promise you’ll love both.

Here is my price list and my contact details.

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