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March 31, 2006

bobby's boys...

[The very relaxed Brian Staples, and myself]

Whilst working on Savile Row the other day I had the usual mix of pleasure and pressure that this business affords you. A busy day seeing customers, then a few drinks after work with the other tailors. Always good for a few tales.

That day Brian Staples [a super tailor who I've known for years] asked me if I would see one of his customers here in Cumbria, and sort out a few tweaks for him, as the gentleman in question doesn't get down to London very often.

This is typical of this business- if we can help one another, we will. We don't worry about the "competition" possibly stealing your customer. It's not a concern, because we don't really have "competition" at this level of bespoke, just friends and colleagues.

We know who are The Real McCoy and who aren't. So do our customers. So what is often a near lifetime of service and friendship is never encroached upon.

Whiling away the last ten minutes of the day, before I escaped to buy Lucy supper in Mulligan's and plan our next US trip, Brian was telling me about about his 50 years in the business. Incredible. He started his apprenticeship with Bobby Valentine, henceforth he was referred to on the Row as one of "Bobby's Boys".

Bobby Valentine was one of the Savile Row's most flamboyant characters, who would certainly give Burlington Bertie a run for his money. A superb craftsman, especially popular with many customers in the music and theatre business.

[Miss Lucy Adams, who assists me on my U.S. visits.]

I remember Mr. Valentine coming in to talk to me in the front shop of Anderson & Sheppard one Spring day, wearing the most outrageous of clothes, but still looking impeccably stylish. He was giving me advice on life on the Row. Within minutes my boss, Mr. Halberry arrived. The immediate visual contact between the two men was enough to bring our polite conversation to an abrupt end. I remember laughing loudly to myself, at the stylistic clash of having Mr. Halberry and Mr. Valentine in the same room. Just look at the pictures of each man and work it out for yourself [Mr. Halberry's photo is here, Mr. Valentine's picture is posted below.].

After his apprenticeship, Brian moved to Denman & Goddard for a while. Then after that, for 12 years he managed the shop of one of the Row's most famous celebrity tailors, Doug Hayward. Mr. Hayward's shop was more of a private gentleman's club than a shop, where customers like Michael Caine, Tony Bennett and Sammy Davis Jr. would just randomly call in for a drink, or even throw an impromptu party.

After he parted his ways with Mr. Hayward, Brian started on his own, like myself, and has been that way ever since. He's as relaxed as he looks, and has no need for a website, because as he says, at a very youthful 66 years old, "I have no customers except old friends and new friends. There are no strangers here."

Says it all, I suppose.

If you fancy a new suit, he's one of the best. Hardcore old school. Brian Staples: +44 (0) 207 734 5069.

[Bobby Valentine on the left, with Tommy Nutter, the latter another wonderful character from the old days. This picture comes from the classic 1988 book, "The Savile Row Story" by Richard Walker. Highly recommended.]

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March 20, 2006

savile row in the times...

[Fred Eltham, one of the best tailors on the Row, without question.]

From The Times (of London): "Tailors find an ally in fight to hold high street at bay."

Bespoke tailors in cluttered workshops on this famous London street have been handsewing suits for royals, statesmen, film stars and men of distinction and style for almost two centuries.

But the existence of Savile Row’s tailors has been threatened by a 50 per cent rent rise in the past ten years, fuelled by the desire of upmarket clothes stores to cash in on the street’s reputation.

The Times has learnt, however, that planners at Westminster City Council are planning to act to save Savile Row from the curse of chain-store uniformity that threatens to blight every high street in Britain.

In a report to be published today, the council outlines how it will block attempts to turn the workshops into retail outlets.

[...]

“If ever there was a street that deserved an award for exporting then it’s Savile Row,” said Thomas Mahon a Savile Row-trained tailor who now runs English Cut. “If the bespoke businesses were driven out by crappy retail stores selling poor quality clothes, then Savile Row’s name would be irreparably damaged.”

Needless to say, As I've said before, there's a lot of heritage on Savile Row, and it needs to be protected. The fact that our local government is starting to agree with us tailors can only be seen as a good sign.

As there's been a lot of recent press interest in Savile Row due to this report, all the tailors are assembling at 11am today for a group photograph, to give to the press to use. All of the Row's most dashing candidates will be there, strutting their stuff. I talked to a lot of the boys last week, who wanted me to come down for the shoot. Sadly, I'm cutting today in Cumbria, so I shall miss this historic occasion.

But Godspeed to everyone there today, and I'll look forward to seeing you all in the papers.

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March 13, 2006

overcoat...

A "skiffle" [rush job] finished over the weekend, which the client tried on this morning. A beautiful overcoat, just in time for him to wear to Cheltenham tomorrow. Let's hope it brings him some luck with the horses.

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March 11, 2006

back from america...

[My niece, Laura, in a New York taxicab.]

Well, home again from America. My feet are still aching and my arms are an inch longer, thanks to my heavy suitcases. Never mind, it was well worth it, meeting good friends both old and new. As usual, both Laura and I were spoilt by everyone in the US.

Thank God business was brisk, with regulars coming in to re-order, and new people taking their first foray into bespoke. I'm very honoured that my customers keep returning, and my new clients are trusting me with their needs. Needless to say, I won't be going anywhere soon. I'll be spending most of the hours God's given me for the next while here at Warwick Hall, busily working away like the mice from the Tailor Of Gloucester.

[Martin Morse, holding up a dress he just made for his girlfriend.]

In New York, I had the pleasure of meeting up with some other colleagues in the trade, which is always fun. Also, I managed a couple of pints in Chicago with a young chap called Martin Morse, an apprentice from Oxxford Clothes. They're a super company, turning out beautiful clothes from their Chicago workshop.

Martin is in the same position as I was once- young and hungry, paid little money, kept away from clients, but still having a thoroughly wonderful time at his work. It's nice to see that people are the same from whichever part of the globe they hail.

And like myself at that age, as it'll be several years before he'll be allowed near a customer's suit, he's still making good use of his time and resources. The picture above shows a dress he just made for his girlfriend. A wonderful piece of work made for very little money- using the scraps of Cashmere and Super 150's left on the cutting room floor. Well done Martin, it's a true work of art. I hope your girlfriend appreciates your original idea and hard work.

He's definitely a young man who's going places. Nice to see. I hope to have a look around the Oxxford factory when I'm next over; it'll be great to meet Chicago's version of Savile Row.


[A very "stout" tweed.]

I managed to try on some super clothes on my customers whilst on my trip, thanks to skill of my tailors, and the diligence of my cloth merchants and their never ending search for the best fabrics. However, the show stopper for me was this tweed on the coat I made above, that was sourced by a good customer of mine. He described it as a "stout". Stout it most certainly is. Even with my light construction of make, it was extremely heavy. No need for a top coat here. "They certainly don't make like this any more," he said. Well, maybe not, except at English Cut [chuckle].

I know people are going to ask me who makes this tweed. If my customer says it's alright, I'll let you know.

I was enjoying wearing my new shirts from Nigel at Rayner & Sturges, My customers liked the look of them too, and I sold a few orders. It was nice to be able to help with that important part of a wardrobe, as well. It's a new part of the busines, and a new direction for me, but it's something that increasingly excites me.

Well, I must dash, but on behalf of Laura and myself, thank you once again all for the wonderful hospitality in the US. I plan tentatively to be back in the United States in late May, but I'm not making appointments till much nearer the date. I can't wait.

Also, many thanks to my friend Steven Hitchcock [a very talented, young Savile Row tailor], who kindly warned me about a rather odd individual, an American customer, who's been making life harder than it should be for us tailors. I know customers watch us tailors, and talk about both us and our work with each other. Luckily, we tailors do the same with our customers.

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March 6, 2006

johnny & ravi in new york

[Jonathan Quearney]

I am writing this from New York, having just arrived earlier this afternoon from Atlanta.

Besides myself, I am pleased to say that two other Savile Row tailors are in Manhattan at the moment, both good friends of mine. Perhaps if you're looking for something different from what I offer, you might consider giving them a call.

The young Jonathan Quearney, and Ravi Tailor from Anthony Hewitt's.

Jonathan makes a very smart made-to-measure two piece starting at around £700.

Ravi's work is utterly top-drawer; a slighty firmer bespoke than myself. I gave him a mention earlier here.

You can find them both at the Hotel Benjamin, the same place I'm staying at. If you see them, tell them 'Hello' from me!

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