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June 4, 2010

summer on savile row......

(fantastic summer seersucker)

Now if we've got suits like this on the board you know that summers arrived. Of course the wise among you will know that if this suits only made it as far as the cutting board then the proud owner will be lucky if he's wearing it this autumn.

Well, we are fortunate to have many clients around the world who get to enjoy a little more sunshine than us in this green and pleasant land. Which is lovely for some. We're always asked about how we can keep a Savile Row suit as lightweight and cool as possible. I basically summed it up in an article I wrote five years ago, which is here if you want a recap.

But to be honest the reality is that you'll always be cooler if you have a suit that is naturally constructed, without heavy canvas and haircloth. Also, if it fits you properly you'll feel comfortable with the ability to move. That way you wont be fighting against the garment and you'll feel more relaxed and cool.

You'd be amazed at the amount of clients who wear 12-13oz fabrics in the summer. Experience has taught them that the 8-9 oz worsted's don't really make you feel that much cooler. What they're guaranteed to to do in hot humid conditions is to crease and crumple more and certainly make you look hot and flustered.

(just popping out with the family)

My advice with clothing is a little like food. You eat with your eyes and have almost made up your mind before you've had a single bite. If you're going to wear wool in the summer, 10oz is light enough. Keep the colours lighter and you'll automatically feel that your wearing a cooler suit. Then if circumstances permit, wear the real summer weights and fabrics like this lucky fellow. Linens and cottons in light blues, tan and stone colour and your brain will tell you that you're straight from the cool calm era of the British Raj. They'll crease like the devil but that's what they're supposed to. Anyway, as in the old colonial days just pretend you have a personal valet who'll tell you every time that " your suit is pressed and ready Saab".

Posted by tom at June 4, 2010 10:31 AM


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