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June 4, 2005


(The main parts of a body coat.)

This is something I don't get to cut on a regular basis- A classic morning suit. This is got to do with people dressing down at weddings to a certain degree, and the increased availability and quality of formal hire.

Formal hire is a perfectly understandable option, still, you should always have bespoke if possible. The cost is more than justified because of the fit and comfort. And also, because it's not designed for everyday wear, it's a real treat that will last for decades.

(Timothy Dalton as James Bond in a morning coat, in the 1989 film "License To Kill".)

Of course, the morning coat's uses are quite limited, but I'm delighted when people still treat themselves to such a classic. And happily for tailors everywhere, a morning suit in black or grey is still reasonably popular, thanks to weddings and grand days at the races.

The morning suit is made quite differently from a usual coat, mainly with the tails at the back, and the seperate blade cuts which give that beautiful clean fit through the body.

It's s a very difficult cut to get right, and it also takes a very special type of tailor to sew it together- many in the business don't touch them.

(Classic striped trousers to match, sometimes called cashmere trousers.)

As you can imagine, this specialist work dosen't come cheap. I won't tell you what I'm charging the gentleman for this suit, but I will tell you he was recently quoted £5,000 by another Savile Row tailor.

I can feel a price increase comming on...

Posted by tom at June 4, 2005 1:03 PM

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