the new old way…..
tailors in England produce arguably the finest tailoring in the world and of course I would argue that;) But in all seriousness we’re all suffering from the same problem, a lack of skilled tailors and very high manufacturing costs
. We’re particularly fortunate at English Cut as we are a small company with our own home grown skilled artisans
If you walk into many of the larger Savile Row workshops your going to notice many different nationalities working on your clothes. Don’t get me wrong this is not a criticism
but simply a fact of life. If I wanted to double our bespoke business we’d have to look to these people for their skills also. I know lots of young people want to be tailors because we’re now caught up in the fashion
world. They see bespoke tailoring as a vibrant and cool business to be in, which it is but I wish people realised this ten years ago then we’d have the necessary skills now. Never mind, better late than never. On hindsight we should have started English Cut five years earlier then we’d of encouraged more young people to take an interest in our trade.
As I said whilst having my ten o’clock cuppa
, we feel we’re doing something new with our made to measure and eventual ready to wear collection. I certainly feel it will revolutionize our expectations on what we should accept in standards of comfort, style and craftmanship in our clothing. Here are the facts and you can decide if what we’re trying to achieve will be worth while.
is expensive which is a real and controlling fact. We want to get people wearing and enjoying real clothes that have been made with passion and not drilled out on some distant production line. We want to bring the cost down to a more attainable level
, basically about half the cost of an English hand make. We are still looking at a substantial cost to commission a suit but it will give many more people the opportunity to raise their sartorial bar. Ultimately to create this standard of tailoring at a more attainable cost we’ll have to make them outside of the UK. We’ve looked at many manufactures around the globe and the only people that passed our tests for quality, craftsmanship and more importantly were willing to make our way and to our standards were in a bespoke workshop and training school in Chennai
At the time of our research about eighteen months ago I was introduced to a gentleman and his brother who told me how they had set up a workshop and training school for the local people in their home town. They have a selection of older, highly experienced artisans teaching a new generation of tailors. Their eagerness and passion is absolutely infectious. Anything that could possibly bear the English Cut name had to be thoroughly scrutinized but we were fascinated by their vision for the continuation of true bespoke tailoring . On our initial visit Paul
and I were astonished with what we found. In an immaculate, bright and cheery workshop where we found 20-30 young skilled people enthusiastically competing with each other to be the very best in our craft. This was how the trade was when we fell love in love with it nearly thirty years ago. The conditions, pay and atmosphere in this workshop is far superior than many found in London. These youngsters would not normally have had the opportunity to learn such a craft. In fact many were orphaned from the boxing day tsunami of 2004
which left so many without a future at all. In our workshop environment they enjoy learning and are rewarded for their hard work and attention to detail. They are paid well whether they have to do something once or five times to get it perfect.
(told you our workshops are messy)
We’ve set what we believe are the highest standards and more’s the point we’ve re-written the book on how clothes should be tailored. Our bespoke clients know how important this is, as it’s the way our clothes feel that have kept our order books full throughout this miserable recession. After a lot of hard work, re -drafting and continual re-making I feel we’ve created something that’s worthy of an English Cut label.
As from July you’ll initially be able to make an appointment with myself where you can choose your cloth, style details and then be measured. We’ll also have our full rage of sample garments in the basic sizes. To compliment your full set of measurements we can try the clothes on you so we can both see the type of look we’re aiming for. After this stage we’ll meet again with a completed suit which we can fine tune as necessary. The entire process will take about six weeks from start to finish and the cost will be approximately £1400.00 for a two piece. Before you receive your suit everything will be finalized and checked here at the hall
, the home of English Cut.
In simple terms you’ll own a hand made garment that’s been made by craftsmen who love their work. The style will be soft and natural, exactly as we make here in our own workshop, Paul and I will make sure of this. They’ll be cut using patterns designed by yours truly and quite simply there will be nothing to compare in made to measure tailoring. Remember, this is unique, we’re not using one of the three factories that everyone else uses to machine produce soulless garments that all look the same. These have been redesigned from the paper pattern right through to the final pressing technique.
Ultimately the proof is in the pudding and as they say “the truth will out in the end”. We have a lovely business which will continue unchanged. However, people will talk and when we have a new range of clients and they’ll talk for us so we’ll all know if these are truly something special.
As with everything associated with English Cut we leave the door open to anyone who wants to drop in, ask questions and learn about what we do, there are no secrets here. This invitation is also open for people who want to learn of our new service. If you want to make a trip to India, which I can highly recommend, you’ll be made very welcome by our craftsmen. You’ll find them very eager to show off their skills and you’ll witness first hand the pride they take in their work. Many companies quietly sneak their production off shore and hope you’ll not notice. We don’t like to do business that way. At English Cut you’ll know what your getting and if people criticize us for what we’re doing we certainly don’t care.
If you’re wondering what we’re all laughing about at the end of the movie , we were simply enjoying ourselves and Paul was trying his best to understand the famous Indian head wobble
Well I’ll have to get on but hope you’ve enjoyed our little movie which will hopefully give you more of an insight into how we do business. I’d also like to thank Claire
my wife and my son Patrick for sleeping long enough so that Claire could make this for us with lot of help from her clever little Mac
(you have asked to see, so here’s our son Patrick as usual, very awake)
Tags: made to measure suits, Savile Row tailoring
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on Tuesday, March 29th, 2011 at 1:23 pm and is filed under people, ready to wear, savile row, Shop, traveling.
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