The Matching Myth…

[Pinstripe with un-matching stripe at the shoulder seam- classic Savile Row bespoke.] This has been the bain of bespoke tailors for generations: the little detail of matching pinstripes or chalk-stripes through the shoulder seam of a bespoke coat.On a fairly regular basis over the years, I've had to wrestle with customers to prove that if you're tailoring a hand-made coat properly, it's practically impossible to match the stripes through this seam.And I know I'll receive numerous Continue Reading »

What if you only have £300?

( A hankie, simply tucked in)After receiving a lot of e-mails from English Cut readers, it’s pretty obvious that there's plenty of people out there who would love to have a handmade suit from any of the wonderful tailors on Savile Row. But the reality is; they don't come cheap. Not everybody has £3000 to spend on a suit.What if you have only £300 to spend? [approx. $500 US] For that money, I’m afraid all you’ll get on Savile Row is a very good meal for you and your friends at Sartoria, a Continue Reading »

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Button Sewing Tip…

(All you need to sew on a button- needle, thread, thimble... and half a matchstick.) Even if you pay £4000 for a suit, the sad fact is that buttons do fall off, even the ones sewn on by hand by the best Savile Row tailors. Now I don't think for a moment that the ladies and gentlemen who read English Cut are incapable of sewing a button on. But as with everything in life, there's a right way and a wrong way to do it. Sewing a button on correctly is particularly important with the key button on Continue Reading »

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The Body Coat…

(The main parts of a body coat.) This is something we don't get to cut on a regular basis - A classic morning suit. This is got to do with people dressing down at weddings to a certain degree, and the increased availability and quality of formal hire. Formal hire is a perfectly understandable option, still, you should always have bespoke if possible. The cost is more than justified because of the fit, comfort and superior quality. Also, because it's not designed for everyday wear, it really Continue Reading »

Straight or Crooked…

(Mr Clinton in a very "straight" coat- lots of shirt visible.) (Mr Stewart wearing a "crooked" coat- not a lot of shirt visible.) Two rather strange tailoring terms are "straight" and "crooked" to describe a coat. I’ll try to clarify.Obviously there are lots of details that give a suit a certain style that distinguishes it from others. This can be the cut of the silhouette, slim or relaxed. the construction of the coat, hard or soft etc. These are pretty obvious to even the untrained eye. Continue Reading »